Fly fishing the large and small “drive-in” high lakes of Oregon and the Pacific Northwest is an art in itself and good fly-fishing information about a lake is of prime importance to the success of the high lake fly fisher. You need to have a good understanding of the lake bottom, the insect life and the feeding habits and characteristics of the resident trout.

Use a depth finder in waters of 12 to 15 feet to look for old river or creek channels, drop offs, and uneven bottom contours that tend to hold fish. It is easy to keep track of those special locations in a logbook with the help of a GPS system or simple triangulations using shoreline landmarks as reference points. Also, look for shallow waters (4 to 8 feet) with patches of weed beads and silt covered muddy bottoms. You can easily fly fish these types of waters in depths of no more than 10 feet, using a slow sinking clear fly line and a count down method. The areas with these types of bottoms can support a wide variety of insect life including: May flies, caddis flies, damselflies, dragonflies, scuds, chironomid (midges), and leeches. Where you have insect life, you should find fish.

When I am fly fishing the high lakes, I carry three rods in my boat strung up ready to fish. One rod is a 9 footer with a WF #5 dry line for fishing emergers and dry flies. The 2nd rod is also a 9 footer but with a WF #6 dry fly line rigged with a 10-foot leader, a small adjustable indicator, a small nymph or chironomid. The 3rd rod, also a 9 footer which is matched with a WF #7 slow sinking clear fly line with an 8 foot leader for fishing a wooly bugger, leech pattern or a dragon fly nymph.

If you are fishing a clear mountain lake from a small anchored boat, keep the sun at your back and stay in the blind spot of the fish and maintain a low profile so you won’t need to make a long fly cast. Don’t cast your fly in the same place more than once. In this case consider casting in a 90-degree arc from you position. Start casting 45 degrees out to the left, After working your fly back to your pick-up point, make the next cast 5 degrees to the right of the first cast etc, until you are casting straight ahead. The next cast is 45 degrees out to the right. Continue decreasing the arc by 5 degrees until you are casting straight ahead. I call this cutting the pie and in this situation you are casting 5 degrees toward center on each cast so the shadow of the fly line does not alarm the fish before they see your fly. Always cut the pie to cover as much water as you can while at the same time, casting so that the shadow of the fly line does not alarm any fish that are in the area. For more information refer to my article on Ezine Articles.com “A nymph fishing tutorial”. After changing your fly pattern, repeat “cutting the pie”. After you have thoroughly covered the water with a new fly, quietly pull your anchor and move to another area and change flies again until you find the right fly pattern and or the right lake bottom and feeding fish.

Many high lakes are also exposed to seasonal hatches of black carpenter ants and termites that are blown onto the lake from lakeside fir trees. Black ants usually come out in the middle of June or when the air temperature around the lake first gets into the mid 70 degree- range for a few days. If you see one black ant on the water start fishing a black ant because when the fish start hitting the ants, the fly fishing can be fast and furious.

Fly fishing a small high lake of 1/2 mile across is not much of a problem for a small boat or even a float tube. However, larger lakes need to be fished with care because of possible afternoon prevailing winds can create rough and choppy water conditions that can pose a danger to a small boat. Float tubers always need to wear a life vest and small boaters should always wear them when underway or during rough water conditions.

I hope these fly-fishing tips will help you to better enjoy the outdoor experience. Remember to check the state fishing regulations for the waters that you are going to fish.

Be careful, and good luck fishing the High Lakes of Oregon and the Pacific Northwest.

By: Stanley Stanton
Stanley Stanton: Oregon Fly Fishing Guide and McKenzie River fishing guide, Visit: http://www.oregon-fly-fishing-with-stan.com. For trout fly fishing tips, how to fly fish information, plus guided Rainbow Trout Fly Fishing, Steelhead Fly Fishing, classes for beginners and advanced fly fishing and Oregon Salmon Fishing.

Fishing information courtesy of Resources For Attorneys, a legal and lifestyle resources directory for attorneys, lawyers and the internet public.

Are you looking for a few laughs? Check out our fishing jokes section.

Fly tying can be easy and fun. It is important not only to select the right knot for a particular job but to tie it properly. Poorly Tied knots will mean lost fish. In this article, we discuss a few basic steps to follow when fly tying all knots for fly fishing, followed by some ingenious ways you can obtain free fly tying materials.

Three Basic Steps

Lubricate knots: Before you tighten a knot, lubricate it with saliva or by dipping it in the water. This will help the knot slide and seat properly. Lubrication also decreases excessive heat which dramatically weakens monofilament. Heat is generated by the friction created when knots are drawn up tight.

Seat the knot: Tighten knots with a steady, continuous pull. Make sure the knot is tight and secure. After it is tied, pull on the line and leader to make sure it holds. It is better to test it now than when a fish is on.

Trim neatly: Use nippers to trim the material as close as possible without nicking or damaging the fly tying knot.

Free Fly Tying Materials Around Your Home A quick browse around your house may yield some inexpensive and creative fly tying materials. If you need some glow ball material so you can tie a few eggs try the yarn you have in the house. Use some colors you think might work well. Pull a few strands off and begin tying your eggs. Mixed a few colors just to see what patterns you get.

These have been reported to work really well on the Colorado river. POW! Fish go for the egg. Cast after cast will yield some nice trout in the 16-24" range. The best pattern is an orange yarn with a pink strand.

Consider also some of the following fly tying materials:

Dubbing Dryer Lint - Choose the right color close to dry and then pull the lint out and use as common dubbing materials.

Brush the Dog - Several breeds such as Chows have thick undercoats. The fur makes a great natural material for dubbing.

Feathers A look around the yard or park can yield some interesting feathers to use for tying. Just a note however, wild birds are known for mites so take steps to insure you don't end up infecting your purchased features with these nasty critters.

Suggestions for avoiding mites:

Zap the materials in the microwave for 30sec. Put them in a plastic baggy and freeze them for a few days.

Stay away from dead birds. They could have been infected with a disease.

Foam body Packing foam commonly used for electronics work great. Just cut off a small strip and presto you have your body material. Need a different color than white, pull out a permanent marker such as a Sharpe and apply the desired color.

Furs Any old stuffed animals laying around? Some synthetic furs will work well on your hand tied flies.

Just take a look around the house and you will find items to substitute your traditional fly tying materials. Its a great way to save a few dollars and expand your creativity. You might even find that perfect combination to land that Fly Fishing trophy!

Another alternative is too take a trip to the local craft store. They also are a great resource for Fly Tying materials such as feathers, furs, threads, beads, etc.

By: Peter Halpin
For a goldmine of information about fly tying and everything else about fly fishing you'll ever need to know, visit Fly Fishing Guide.

Fishing information courtesy of Resources For Attorneys, a legal and lifestyle resources directory for attorneys, lawyers and the internet public.

Are you looking for a few laughs? Check out our fishing jokes section.

The very first thing you need to do, besides buying a fly rod and reel, is forget everything you have ever read or saw on fly fishing. You want to catch fish, not look like something out of the big "O's" catalogue. The fish aren't going to hit because you look as though you just stepped out of a fashion magazine!

But first some basics. And this isn't rocket science. Like spinning or casting rods and reels that come in a variety of actions (i.e. light, medium, heavy and Oh my god!), so do fly rods and reels. It's based on a number system. The only thing to remember is that you match the fly line weight with the rod and reel weight. So here's the weights and the size of fish that you would fish for with them: 4/5 weight rod/reel/line, small fish up to 2 to 3 pounds. 5/6 weight, small fish up to 3 to 7 pounds. 6/7 weight, fish up to 7 to 10 pounds. 7/8, 8/9 and 9/10 weights, now you can go for most fresh water fish and a some salt water fish. A graphite or fiberglass rod will do just fine.

Keep in mind that the above is only a basic guide. As an example, I fish rivers for steelhead and chins with both a 5/6 weight in a 7 foot rod and a 8/9 weight in a 9 foot rod and have used the 8/9 weight off of my boat. (See below). Both are fiberglass rods. (I also use, when needed, a 14 foot noodle rod). The 5/6 gets put aside in favor of the 8/9 when there are really big fish present and when there are a lot of people fishing. The heavier weight lets me land the fish more quickly so as not to upset other fishermen. The lighter weight takes more time and finesse to land larger fish, but is more challenging and fun. I also use the 5/6 weight in smaller streams and in lakes. (I have two different sized reels. One for river fishing which is bigger and holds more line than a standard 5/6 weight, but still load it with 5/6 weight line). Could you use the 8/9 for small fish? Sure, but it's a little over kill and not as much fun.

As for the reel, as I stated above, you match the rod and reel. There are several types of reels you can use. One is an automatic. The advantage to an automatic is that it picks up the line quickly. But there are some disadvantages. One is that it's a heaver reel which can be quite tiring. Also many do not hold enough line for fishing big fish without costing an arm and a leg. So that leaves several other types. One is a reel with a disk drag. Another with a spring drag, one with a clicker drag and one with a combination of two, either clicker/spring or disk/clicker. I use reels with a spring drag and the combination reel and find that they work quite well. I have also used reels with just a clicker drag. With this kind of reel you palm the exposed rim of the spool to create drag, allowing you to apply pressure as needed. Many just starting fly fishing opt for this reel. They are typically the least expensive of the reels.

As for the line, leader and backing, this to is not Einstein territory. Backing is used for nothing more than filling the fly fishing reel and to give you lots of line for when the fish runs. For fishing with a 4/5 to 6/7 weight you need 30 or slightly more yards of 10 pound backing. Any Dacron or nylon braided line will do, but do not use the super braids. Super braids don't fill the reel up enough. (However if you are going to use the fly rods for trolling, then you could use a super braid so you get enough line on the reel. See my article " Think Out Side The Box".) I use tip-up line. For 8/9 and larger weights you need 75 yards or more of 15 to 20 pound test line. Two reasons: one, the reels are bigger and you need to fill them, and two, you're fishing for bigger fish that can peal off quite a lot of line. I use 100 yards of 20 pound test braided ice fishing line. The brand doesn't matter as long as it's fairly good line. I like a bright line colors, lime green, bright yellow or orange. It is easier to see once you get into the backing fighting a fish.

And now the line. In fly fishing you cast the line, not the fly. It's the weight of the fly line that gets your bait out to where the fish are. An argument can be made for several types of line such as sinking, weight forward, floating and so on. But all you really need to get started is weight forward floating line. The reason is quite simple: you want to see the line on the water and it's easy to cast. Your line is the bobber/strike indicator, so to speak. To attach the backing to the line any strong knot that will pass through the fly rod's eyes will do, although many fly fisherpersons use the Improved Surgeon Knot, a Blood Knot or a Blood Snell Knot. The Surgeon Knot and the Blood Snell Knot can be tied easily with the "Cinch Tie Knot Tyer,' and the Blood Knot with the "Tru-Blood Knot Tyer."

And now for the leaders. If you want to get real fancy then get fly leader, which comes in a variety of length and sizes. You also have choices in tippet sizes which can be confusing. I use a good 10 to 20 pound fluorocarbon because I fish rivers a lot. And I'll tell you it works just fine. If there are a lot of snags go with the heaver line. For pan fish and other small fish in lakes, 4 to 6 pound test would suffice. Attach the mono to the fly line using the same knots as above. The length of the leader can be any length you want, but 10 to 15 feet is fine.

As far as lures, baits and flies, the following should get you started on river run Steelhead which should be in the river now. Buy several of each as you will lose baits if you're fishing rivers. Your flies should include salmon egg patterns in orange, lime green and white, egg sucking leaches, woolly buggers in several colors, an assortment of bright flies best tied on salmon hooks, and an assortment of drab colored flies again on salmon hooks. Use the big and the bright flies in stained water and the drab in clear. You can also get a assortment of different colored streamers. Tie them onto the leader with a Trilene knot or whatever knot you are used to using. To get the flies down to where the fish are, place a small split shot about 1 foot above the fly. Experiment till the fly just ticks the bottom. Hold your rod tip up high to get a more natural drift.

You don't, in most instances, need to cast a long distance in most of the rivers flowing into the Great Lakes. My average cast is less than 20 feet when I'm wading in rivers. Let out about 10 to 15 feet of line into the current. Let the line straighten out and pull off another 5 to 10 feet of line. When straight, using your wrist more than your arm, flick the rod tip back to the 2:00 o'clock position, pause a split second or so then flick the rod tip to the 9:00 o'clock position and watch were the fly goes. Follow the drift with your rod tip watching for any indication of a strike. If the line stops or moves in a different direction set the hook. My suggestion is a couple of practice sessions in the back yard and you'll be casting like a pro. Well almost.

I summary, this year I'm upgrading to Yad fly rods and Pflueger reels with disk drags and clickers. My old fiberglass rods are getting just a bit more than beat up and my reels are well worn. But any of the rods and reels mentioned in this piece will do.

If you have any questions or comments on the above just e-mail me @ gobblywabblerdistributors@earthlink.net and I'll try to answer all inquires. Good Fishing. George

By: George Hampel
George Hampel was a charter captain for a good number of years in Up-State New York and has fished all of his life. He currently writes articles for outdoor publications and gives seminars on all kinds of fishing. He also owns a web store at www.gobblywabblerdistributors.com that sells outdoor equipment for most every kind of outdoor activity and specializes in fishing.

Fishing information courtesy of Resources For Attorneys, a legal and lifestyle resources directory for attorneys, lawyers and the internet public.

Are you looking for a few laughs? Check out our fishing jokes section.

Shad or more precisely American Shad is more often than not over looked as a species of fish suitable for fly fishing. And what a shame that is. First off unlike many other more common and perhaps glamorous species shad numbers are often very healthy and getting healthier. North Carolina's Neuse River, for one, boasts of a huge resurrection in shad numbers. Oregon's Columbia River shad numbers over 2 million fish annually. The legendary Delaware River has over 300 miles of shad habitat. So why are shad frequently ignored by fly fishers?


I suppose tradition as much as anything. Most of us were raised fly fishing for trout, steelhead or perhaps salmon. Anything that did not taste good in the frying pan or over an open fire was reduced to the status of trash fish. But as fly fishing has migrated from eating your catch to more likely releasing your catch, so has fly fishing. Not that shad aren't good to eat, many people consider them a delicacy, and although bony and difficult to fillet there are ways to slow cook them as to melt the smaller bones altogether.


The American Shad is an anadromous fish, migrating from fresh water to salt water and back again to spawn. Migrating season varies widely with the location. Temperature plays a large part in the migrating season. The further south one is the earlier the season. In Florida's St. Johns River for example the season can begin in November. Further up in north the Roanoke run starts in February usually peaking in March. More northern reaches might not start in earnest until June, particularly on the west coast.


What really makes shad a treat for fly fishers, besides their numbers, is their incredible fighting ability. Nicknames in various locations as 'poor man's salmon' or 'poor man's tarpon' they have a well deserved reputation as literally ripping a fly on a run that will send you and your reels screaming with delight.


The best time to fish for shad is low light conditions preferably early morning or overcast days. Evening times generally produce fewer strikes, perhaps their interest is on the reason for their return at this time. It is generally thought shad are not actively feeding inland; although this opinion varies widely from location to location. In general the longer shad have been in the fresh water the less interested in food they. However shad can and do return to the ocean after spawning. Unlike pacific salmon their digestive tract remains intact. Undoubtedly some strikes will be aggression, some instinctual, some curiosity, and some out of hunger.


Shad's primary food source in the ocean is plankton, but they will eat other common sources of food. Plus since they were born in fresh waters, sources of food there are not going to be totally foreign. Nevertheless most fly fishing for shad is done with brightly colored patterns offering lots of movement. Woolly Buggers, Clousers, and Crazy Charlies are all common offerings for shad.

Wet fly swing is probably the most effective technique for shad. Imparting motion can help when nothing is working. Also allow your fly to hang down for a good fifteen seconds at the end of each cast. Often times they will grab, and I do mean grab, and the end of a swing. Shad hit hard, be ready, but stay calm. They will hook themselves.


Shad feed in schools in the ocean, and move in schools upriver. They tend to set up camp in seams, below rapids, and move all at once. They are light sensitive, but many sunny days they do adjust to the light by midday. Although your best slam dunk time is early morning. Vary sink rates and depths until you find one, and then don't leave the spot you find them.


Shad weigh in at 2-3 lbs. for males and five pounds or so for females. Size can vary depending on location. Hickory Shad common in Washington D.C. are smaller. Depending on river size 7-9 wt rods are recommended. Sink tip lines in most situations are helpful especially if fishing large rivers, you want to get your fly down quickly.

By: Cameron Larsen
Cameron Larsen is a retired commericial fly tier. He now owns and operates Big Y Fly Co. A retail and wholsale fly fishing outlet find it at http://www.bigyflyco.com.

Fishing information courtesy of Resources For Attorneys, a legal and lifestyle directory for attorneys, lawyers and the internet public.

Some people just don't take well to night fishing. They get disorientated, their casting begins to fall to pieces, and they may find they lose their sense of balance in the water. But for those that can deal with these problems, the rewards can be spectacular! I do a fair percentage of my fishing at night, possibly as much as half. Yes, its nice to be out in the sun, wandering up a small stream, but if you want to catch the BIG ones, then after dark is the time to go.

Equipment and Flies For a start, use a good stout leader, and shorter than you would use during the day. A 10lb tippet is not unreasonable, any less and you will risk losing the big fish. And there is no need for a leader any longer than perhaps 7-8 feet. Another advantage of this is that there is less likelyhood of getting your fly and leader tangled. Much of the best night fishing in the South Island tends to be in the lower reaches of the main rivers. There can be some huge sea-run trout entering these rivers, and they will tend to be most active during the hours of darkness. I feel that fly pattern is less important than size and the speed of the retrieve. So a few of the patterns to carry could be: Mrs Simpson, Rabbit fly (black) a Grey Ghost, and a Red Setter. Usually sizes between #2, and #4 will be enough.

Know Your Fishing Area If you are planning a trip out at night, it really does pay to have a good idea of the area that you will be fishing. Apart from the obvious safety aspects regarding water depth, currents etc, you want to be confident that you will be casting into good fish holding water. I have been caught out with this before - wasted time spent casting along what looked to be a good stretch, only to find out later that is was no more than ankle deep!

Effects Of The Moon This part of the article may be a little controversial! The common belief is that the more moon, the worse the fishing. And in general, trout dont like moonlight. They tend to avoid it. Fresh sea-run trout are a different matter. Moonlight has less of an effect with these fish, although the longer they are in the river, the more they start the avoid the moon.

Having said this, some of the best night fishing can be had with a full moon! You just have to be fishing the right places. I have sat down on the banks of the Opihi river during a full moon, and watched the trout feeding on sedge flies. The moon was rising behind the willow trees, casting a deep dark shadow over the pool.

The trout were all rising in the shadow, not a single one rising in the moonlight. And as the moon rose higher, the shadows shortened, and the fish moved with them.

Since that time, I have fished a full moon, with good success. I look for pools or runs with a good cover of willows that cast a decent shadow. So you have to fish from the correct side of the river - it's no good fishing with the moon at your back. And a clear night is actually better than an overcast night. Cloud cover will disperse the light, and you will lose the deep shadows that hold the fish.

One last word on night fishing. If you find you lose your timing when casting in the dark, then try slowing down your whole cast. A common fault is to begin the forward cast too quickly, when there are no visual cues available. Wait just that little bit longer for the line to straighten and load the rod. It's something worth working on, because the rewards can be fantastic. Give it a try - it may open up a whole new experience for you!

And a final tip!

Heres a good tip for those of you that enjoy night fishing.

When using a torch to change flies, unhook a trout etc, it can ruin your night vision, and it may take 5-10 minutes for it to return. Try this -- before you turn off the torch, close your eyes. Then switch it off, and open them again.

You will be surprised how well you retain your night vision, compared to switching the torch off with open eyes. It really does make a difference.

By: Jonathan Bowler
For more fly fishing articles, fly patterns and other related information, visit http://www.NZFlyfisher.com.

Fishing information courtesy of Resources For Attorneys, a legal and lifestyle directory for attorneys, lawyers and the internet public.

Fly fishing is a very popular fishing sport that can be both relaxing and challenging at the same time.

The following tips and tricks are ideal for beginners. When you're just starting out learning to fly fish you'll want all the help and advice that you can get from the experts.

Tip #1: Practice your Casting The experts say that the one thing that you need to do to develop a good casting technique is to practice as often as you can. This will lead to a proficiency in casting that make all the difference between being a successful fly fisher or a frustrated one. Try practicing against a wall on the outside of your house. Just imagine that there is a clock hanging on the wall that is at the same level as your shoulder. Place markers, such as black electric tape, at the 11:00 and 1:00 clock positions. Practice casting against these markers for a few minutes each day to improve your accuracy and style.

Tip #2: Rods There are several things that you need to think about when choosing the right type of rod for you. Every reel and rod has a certain function that you need to be aware of. One of the first things that you need to consider is comfort. Is the rod that you're using comfortable for you to hold? If you're shorter than about 5'5" you won't want to use a rod that is seven feet. Choose a rod length that is easy for you to hold and cast for a few hours at a time. Most of the rods on the market today are designed to allow you to feel when a fish bites. The shaft of the rod is called a "blank" and when the rod is first manufactured the blank is made from fiberglass, graphite, or other materials. Each of these blanks has an action that is either: light, medium, medium/heavy, or heavy. The upper portion will also have an action that is either: extra light, light, or regular.

Both ends of the blank are assembled and the final result is a fishing rod, complete with a handle and guide. No matter what type of rod that you're using, the "action" of the rod will refer to the "blank". The action of the rod will have a great deal to do with the type of fishing that you're doing.

Tip #3: Holding your Rod Effectively It's important that you learn to hold your rod effectively under any fishing conditions. You want to make sure that you maintain good control at all times without gripping too hard. You can adjust the power of your hold when you're in the middle of a cast. This will allow you to minimize the vibrations of each movement. With just a bit of practice you'll be able to increase the tightness at the same as you learn to relax your grip. Tip #4: What do to with a Running Fish Be prepared if a fish runs toward you. Stand on your toes and at the same time raise your rod up over your head as high as you can. Take the line and put it back over onto your second and third fingers of the hand that is holding the rod. Quickly strip the line to pull up on any slack.

If the fish starts to run away from you make sure that you keep the rod up high and slowly let out the line, letting it slide from your fingers. Be ready to palm the reel of the rod when the slack is entirely gone.

Tip #5: Best Bait Choices Following is a list of some best bait choices as recommended by the experts:

Grubs: Grubs are small lures that are usually used to catch larger fish. Grubs are great for use in highland reservoirs where there is little cover for the fish. The grub is much like a bare jig head that has a soft plastic body to attach to the hook. You'll want to use them most often in clear water conditions. Jigs are best used in water that is clear to murky and in water temperatures that are below 60 degrees. The jig is considered to be a "presentation" lure and the ideal way to use them is by making them look as alive as you can. The jig is essentially lead-weighted bait that has one hook. You'll want to add a trailer to the end of the hook for the best results. Plastic worms: If you want to catch that trophy fish you'll probably want to use a plastic worm. This is because the plastic worm is one of the most effective lures for catching any type of big fish. Plastic worms have a thin and long profile with a lifelike action that attracts them instantly to bass. You'll have to learn how to use a plastic worm by touch, feel, and practice. The more that you practice that better results you'll achieve. The one thing that you need to keep in mind is that the fish needs to see the worm before it will hit it. Therefore a plastic worm is best used in clear water. Lure color: Choose lures that are all black or all white. A mix of black and red also works quite well. There will be the odd time when fluorescent colors, such as bright yellow or green, will work well but you'll need to experiment with this.

By: Adrian Kennelly
For more tips, purchase the ebook 101 Fly Fishing Tips for Beginners for only $14.97

Fishing information courtesy of Resources For Attorneys, a legal and lifestyle directory for attorneys, lawyers and the internet public.