Trolling reels are typically used for offshore big-game trolling in open water. Trolling is the process of dragging both bait and lures behind a moving vessel, which is a productive way to locate schools of migratory fish. The reason being, when a boat trolls over a school of fish, the wake and commotion on the surface emulates a ball of bait. This triggers the feeding instincts of many offshore species and immediately sends the leading edge of the school towards the commotion to investigate, with the rest of the pack following. As the most aggressive fish in the school frantically try and chase down this commotion, the trolling lures, jigs and baits are the first hint of a meal that they come across. They charge at them with reckless abandon, inhaling what appears to the fish as vulnerable stragglers, desperately trying to catch up with the rest of the pack.

As soon as one of the trolling lures or baits is inhaled, the trolling reel begins to sing, with the clicker of the reel creating a loud noise that notifies the angler to get ready. This sends the anglers into a dash for their gear, yelling "hook-up", which immediately causes the captain to throw the vessel into neutral to stop the boat. As the momentum of the vessel carries the boat forward, the crew begins to throw live bait, either by pieces or in full scoops. By now, the rest of the migrating school has caught up to the commotion and is met with the temptation of live bait, sending them into a feeding frenzy.

However, a wide-open bite is not always the result of a hook-up while trolling. When the fish are down, or when the conditions are far from ideal, trolling will produce the majority of the catch, with no feeding frenzy following the trolled up fish. On these days, it is essential to land every troll fish and having the right equipment is critical in accomplishing this. Trolling rod and reel combos are the most expensive combos on the market today. Due to their importance in locating roaming schools of open water fish, manufacturers like Shimano®, Penn®, Daiwa®, Okuma® and Accurate® incorporate the finest materials and technologies to ensure strength and durability in producing the best fishing reel capable of handling record-breaking trophies.

Trolling reels are typically found in the lever drag system. On these types of fishing reels, the drag pressure adjusts with the slide of a lever, which is located on the top of the reel to the right. Designated markings of, or similar to freespool, strike and full are found on reels like the Penn® International series, Shimano Tiagra® and the Acurrate Twin Drag® saltwater trolling reels. Most later models come in a two- speed version, with two separate gear ratios that serve different purposes. The high gear is to gain as much line as possible with every turn of the handle, sacrificing torque and power. Low gear, on the other hand, provides tremendous torque and in return, sacrifices the ability to retrieve a substantial amount of line per crank. When properly utilized, both gears are designed to maximize the chances of quickly and efficiently landing scale-busting size fish.

The most noticeable difference in a trolling reel are the two rings that sit atop all trolling fishing reels. These rings are part of the frame and hold an enormous amount of strength. Trolling straps are attached through these rings, as well as big game harnesses and on some occasions, a back-up rod and reel combo, a common practice when fishing on long range boats out of San Diego for huge bluefin and yellowfin tuna. Trolling reels are so strong and powerful, I have even seen anglers cut these rings off and even go so far as to make custom frames to readily access the spool and use trolling reels as live bait reels. I do not recommend this practice, as many of the latest star-drag conventional reels will serve the same purpose.

With the high prices of fuel, trolling around in offshore waters can be very costly. That is why every serious big-game angler should consider having the best saltwater tackle available when it comes to their arsenal. The properly maintained saltwater combo can mean the difference in coming home with a trophy of a lifetime, or coming home skunked, carrying an empty sack.

By: Henry Yoo
I have been fishing for over 20 years of my life and hope to continue to do so for the next 30. I have dedicated myself to sharing what I have learned through those years in the hopes of promoting this popular outdoor recreational activity by providing commentaries and reviews, video tutorials, fishing tips and more. Come visit my site at http://spinningreels.com for freshwater and saltwater fishing information.

Submitted by:
George Snedrow
Are you looking for someone, people search tools like Free Reverse Directories can help you by providing reverse address, phone, email, cell phone and domain name information.

Having fished the sport fishing boats based in Southern California for many years, I have learned that bait selection and presentation are probably the two most critical, yet often overlooked, steps in fishing with live bait that can ultimately lead to a successful fishing trip. Anglers who have the good fortune of fishing live bait such as anchovies, sardines, mackerel and squid, can easily better their chances of landing more fish with these simple measures that begin at the bait well or bait tank.

When selecting a bait from the well, spend some time choosing the hottest, or liveliest bait in the well. The bait should not be missing any scales and check to see if the nose of the bait is red. The nose should always be a natural color and not red. Baits with red noses and missing scales are normally stressed from improper handling, overcrowded tank conditions or disease and do not look or swim in a natural behavior, the key to enticing fish to feed.

After selecting the best bait, bait scoops should be used to remove it from the others. If a baits coop is not available, the angler should carefully slide his hand under the bait and slowly grab the bait with light pressure by the head, so as to not remove the slime or any of the scales on the body. Quickly bait the hook and fluidly cast it as far from the boat as possible, landing the bait softly in the bite zone. Make sure that your tackle, rods and reels, match the appropriate bait and creates as little excess drag on the bait as possible.

Anglers should always be aware of the fishing conditions that surround them. This includes tides, moon phases, currents, patterns and more. Knowing what the fish and the fishing conditions are doing should determine how the angler should bait their hook. Baits can be hooked in the nose, collar, shoulder and butt, depending on how the angler wants the bait to react. I like to nose hook my baits because I move them around as much as possible, including when I retrieve them. Nose hooking is the only way to retrieve the bait with a natural swimming motion, head pointed towards the angler. When you collar, shoulder or butt hook a bait, they usually get ripped off, fall off or come back in an awkward spinning motion. I only hook my bait in the collar or shoulder when the surface fishing is good and when I know the bait will be inhaled before I need to wind it in. On the other hand, butt hooking is used when the bite zone is deeper and not on the surface. Normally, butt hooking a bait will force it to swim down and away, the ideal scenario for many fishing applications. The price you pay is that you sacrifice the ability to wind the bait back through the bite zone if it did not get bit in the first pass. When butt hooked, the bait will usually spin and come in backwards, not a very appealing appetizer for a finicky fish.

Also, make sure your tackle matches in size and weight to your bait. Sometimes, fishing conditions demand heavy tackle for small baits and on other occasions, light gear for big baits. Other than these times, your rods, reels, bait hooks, fishing line, weight and sinkers should not create any excess drag on the bait. Spinning and conventional casting combos come in a wide range of actions and line classes in both freshwater and saltwater versions and carefully selecting the proper live bait rod and reel is essential.

With these bait selection and presentation tips, I hope you will someday be able to enjoy the thrill of being picked up by a trophy size fish. There is nothing more exciting than fishing with live bait, the heart stopping sensation when you feel that familiar thump on the end of the line, followed by a thumb burning grab of your line from the now, rapidly spinning spool waiting to be engaged with a flip of a button, turn of a handle or a slide of a lever with the familiar call of "hook up".

By: Henry Yoo
I have been fishing for over 20 years of my life and hope to continue to do so for the next 30. I have dedicated myself to sharing what I have learned through those years in the hopes of promoting this popular outdoor recreational activity by providing commentaries and reviews, video tutorials, fishing tips and more. Come visit my site at http://spinningreels.com for freshwater and saltwater fishing information.

Submitted by:
Tim Langdorn
Pasadena Restaurant Reviews

In this article I'm going to reveal some secrets of Smallmouth Bass fishing that any angler can use to their advantage on their next fishing excursion. For the purposes of this article, I'm going to focus on fishing for Smallmouth out of the flowing current of a small rivers and streams. If you didn't realize it, smallmouth can be caught in the same manner in which we fish for trout. The only difference being the amazing fighting ability of the Smallmouth Bass.

I'm going to assume that you have a river picked out that contains the fish we're looking for. Begin by finding a good looking are that's not too shallow. The goal's going to be to have your offering bounce off of the bottom as it flows naturally with the current. Start by grabbing the end of your line and tying on a small barrel swivel. Now, on the opposite end of the barrel swivel, tie on a set of pre-tied gang hooks. Add some split shot sinkers above the barrel swivel for weight. The number and size of split shots will vary, depending on the current flow. Now add a live worm to the set of gang hooks (gang hooks are the best way to present live bait).

Now cast this offering into the current, parallel to yourself and close your bail. Let this offering flow with the current, tumbling along the bottom the entire drift. You want your line to be taught as the drift happens. With practice, you'll easily be able to distinguish the difference between the bottom and bites. This technique works extremely well for Smallmouth Bass.

The next secret is to make sure that you have an efficient way to carry your bait. Remember, the more time that you can spend with your line in the water (where the fish are), the better. Having your line out of the water while you locate your bait and bait up is a huge time waster. That's why having a bait bag is such a great idea. A bait bag is simply a small bag that hangs from your fishing vest, and carries your bait for fishing. This way your live worms (or other bait) is always "at your fingertips" waiting to be used. With a bait bag, there is no more wasted time searching for and using your bait.

The final secret to Smallmouth Bass fishing is to make sure that you're on the water at the most opportune times. What do I mean by this? There are certain times of the day and month that are more conducive to fishing than others. Knowing this information, and how to use it to your advantage is what I'm referring to. The information that you need to know, revolves around the weather and moon. There are no two single factors that affect the behavior of fish like the the weather and moon on fish, and knowing the basics of how this works is a secret to being a truly successful angler.

Give one or all of these secrets a try on your next Smallmouth trip and see what happen? You won't be disappointed, I promise you.

By: Trevor Kugler
Trevor Kugler is co-founder of JRWfishing.com and an avid angler. He has more than 20 years experience fishing for all types of fish, and 15 years of business and internet experience. He currently raises his three year old daughter in the heart of trout fishing country... Montana!
Gang Hooks Tied & Ready To Fish: http://www.jrwfishing.com/gang_hooks.asp.

Submitted by:
Josh Truegood
International Issues from Knowledge Is Power

As the year comes screeching to a halt, it means one thing to most of us who enjoy fishing for trout. It means that the weather is colder and the trout are much more sluggish and hard to catch than they are in warmer weather. Does this mean that we can't catch trout when the weather gets cold? No, not at all, it simply means that we need to keep certain things in mind when fishing in these types of conditions.

Fish, and this obviously includes trout, are cold blooded and as the water temperature drops, the fishes metabolism slows down. When a fishes metabolism slows down, they don't eat as much. And we as anglers know what it means when fish don't eat as much, right? Yep, they are much less apt to bite whatever we as anglers are offering.

Keeping in mind that trout aren't going to be as willing to eat as they will when water temperatures are higher, we as anglers need to vary our approach a little bit. This means using baits/lures that are smaller than we normally might. For example when the weather is cold, using a whole night crawler isn't going to be as productive as it might be in July. When the weather (and subsequently the water temperature) gets cold, try using small baits like meal worms and maggots. Or maybe just a piece of night crawler?

The same principle holds true for baits. Where a ¼ ounce Rooster Tail might be employed in July, in January downsize to an 1/8 ounce version of the same lure. The speed of your retrieve should be slowed down when the trout are sluggish due to cold water as well. The bottom line is this: When water temperatures plummet, trout want to expend as little energy as they can getting food. Keep this in mind when fishing for trout in cold weather.

When the trout are sluggish, it's that much more important to make sure you're fishing at the most opportune times. This is where paying attention to the weather and/or moon come into play. These two natural occurrences have a remarkable affect on the behavior of fish, and understanding how and why is important. Maximize your fishing time by learning how the weather and moon affect the behavior of the fish you're trying to catch.

Finally, you have to keep your hands warm while you're fishing, or you're in trouble. The methods I use to catch trout require me to have the unfettered use of my fingers, which means that I need fingerless gloves to help keep my hands warm. Keeping your hands warm while trout fishing is cold weather is of the utmost importance. Nothing can ruin a perfectly good fishing excursion like having your hands feel like they might fall off at any moment, I promise you that.

Follow these simple tips for trout fishing is cold weather and you'll be much more comfortable and successful. Remember, just because the weather temperatures change it doesn't mean that you have to stop fishing for trout.

By: Trevor Kugler
Trevor Kugler is co-founder of JRWfishing.com and an avid angler. He has more than 20 years experience fishing for all types of fish, and 15 years of business and internet experience. He currently raises his three year old daughter in the heart of trout fishing country.....Montana!
Gang Hooks Tied & Ready To Fish: http://www.jrwfishing.com/gang_hooks.asp.

Submitted by:
Barry Arcant
Legal Resources Services

My most favorite fishing charter is, light tackle fishing for mangrove snapper especially at night. In Naples Florida, where I operate, our primary snapper is mangrove but we also catch yellowtail, mutton and red snapper.

To catch snapper consistently at night requires knowledge of and adherence to basic fundamentals. If the guidelines listed below are followed you will be successful and find the same enjoyment that hundreds of my customers have had over the years.

The first order of business is to locate a spot where snapper hangout in good numbers. Most often this will be a ledge, submerged shipwreck, underwater spring or even an area where barrel sponges are closely grouped.

Once you have determined where you are going to fish it is critical to anchor the boat in the proper location. To make certain the boat is properly located I drop a marker buoy near where I want my boat to end up, after we have dropped the anchor. A cyalume stick or small light attached to the buoy makes it much easier to properly position the boat.

To get your boat properly situated, drop your anchor in such manner as to allow the boat to drift back towards the structure but not over or beyond it. Ideally you would be a few feet above tide from the spot with the ocean current moving from your stern directly toward the spot. This is extremely important.

After positioning your boat, you should illuminate the water off the stern with deck lights or other auxiliary lighting. After getting the area lit you should begin chumming, either by cutting up handfuls of bait and tossing them into the water or placing ground up fish in a chum bag hung from the stern. Your chum line should travel in the current over your submerged structure.

Now that all the work is done the fun begins. I like to take a 7-foot casting rod, Newell 2/0 revolving spool reel with 20-pound line with little or no weight and a 3/0 long shank hook. Disengage the reel and strip the line out and let it flow out behind the boat. Keep stripping the line out until you the bait is about 150 feet behind the boat and at that time, if you have not gotten a bite retrieve your it and start again. I suggest you vary the weight from nothing and go up so that the bait sinks to where the fish are hanging. Most often they will eventually come up to the surface but adding weight gets the bait closer to the fish when you first start. Experiment with weights and depths until you locate the school of fish.

If you follow these techniques and go to a spot that holds fish I guarantee you will have success more times than not. Be patient but determined and you will be rewarded.

By: Allen Walburn
Allen Walburn has been a U.S. Coast Guard licensed master of power vessels up to 100 tons for 30 years. He has operated A&B Charters http://www.aandbcharters.com from the Naples City Dock since 1977. Recently he has become managing partner for Alaska's Kodiak Island Resort. kodiakresort.com.

Submitted by:
George Snedrow
Free Reverse Directory

The ice is about to really set on some major lakes and walleye veterans will be hitting their spots like rabid raccoons. So how do these guys find their prime winter spots. Well, most likely there was some trial and error involved, and some stories from this guy and that, and a little luck here at this spot, or that one.You get the idea, hot spots comes from little pieces of information that have been gathered over years of experience to give you some old standby spots.

However, with ice fishing there are signs of angler presence that don't exist in open water months. And one of the biggest signs is holes. Yes, it may be obvious, but some people don't do enough ice fishing hole analysis when ice fishing. On bigger lakes, hole analysis may be very hard to do, because of the enormous amount of water that one must cover. On small lakes though you can see ice fishing hole patterns with a bit of walking or snowmobiling. I don't ever recommend encroaching on people's holes while they are there , and using old holes that people have drilled may be a bit of a no no for some anglers. (If you don't have an auger though , and are on larger lakes there is nothing wrong with using some older holes that are abandoned to get to some water with just a small axe, but don't ever intrude on ice fishing holes blatantly).

What I am recommending is more of analyzing where these fisherman are locating these holes. Above the surface of the water there is little to differentiate one piece of ice from another. But the holes tell a good story about the fishing in the area.

One of the characteristics of the holes to analyze is their distance from the shore. Often times anglers will have found with electronics, or from experience, the point at which the bottom drops off into deeper water where walleye will hold.

This drop off may last for miles or only a few hundred feet. But, the point is, that you now have more information than you did by just blindly drilling holes all over the frozen tundra. When you search around these holes also look for signs of fish being caught. Like fish scales and blood from fish that are thrown on the ice to be saved to eat. This is obviously prime information.

Now if you want to come back to theses spots throughout the winter and it snows a good deal in your neck of winter paradise you need to mark these spots somehow. And you want to mark them so its not that obvious.If you have a gps unit this isn't that hard to do, but if you don't, and you are close to the shore, prop up some sticks in an odd way that you will be able to notice the next time you walk past them. If the holes are close by the shore count off your steps and write down how many steps it took you to get there.

It may sound a bit outdated , but it has a certain walleye hunting barbarian aspect to it , as opposed to saying , oh yeah, my hole is at N 75 blah blah blah, W 64 blah blah blah, you can say my hole is 75 paces off that giant oak out there.

If you don't have electronics to key in on underwater structure than use ice fishing hole analysis this winter to gather information on that will give you some success. Or you could just continue to walk 50 yards from the parking lot and use your auger more than you fish. Whatever floats your boat, both are fun, haha.

By: M. Fox
To talk to fellow walleye anglers about certain spots and tricks visit http://www.walleyelures.info.