Want to get hooked up on a BIG Costa Rica Marlin?

I am Captain Mark Corn of Southern Costa Rica Sport Fishing, located in Puerto Jiminez Costa Rica and Blue and Black Marlin fishing is our specialty and is also the species we target most of the time. There are a variety of reasons why most of our Costa Rica fishing trips are for marlin. Yes they can grow to tremendous sizes which is a major attraction by itself but sharks are big too and we usually won't target them. Our customers that fly down for exotic fishing vacations in Costa Rica seem to prefer marlin fishing too so that is one of the reasons so many of our trips target marlin. But for the crew and myself marlin fishing is our specialty because the marlin species, either Black or Blue is Costa Rica's ultimate fish and it's the world's ultimate sportfish too for that matter.

Marlin are at the top of the food chain and it is us that venture into their world, on their "turf". Because they are the oceans top billfish they provide anglers that are good enough to get hooked up to a large specimen a chance to test his own fishing skills and knowledge. They offer anglers a chance to go one on one with the oceans top fish, it's man against nature's best and you better be ready to give it your all because this beautiful creature of the deep is going to do anything and everything for his chance at freedom. Now you know why and what the attraction is, what drives some very enthusiastic anglers to spend half their lives hunting these fish. With that in mind you now need to know the how we catch these giant Costa Rica Marlin.

The best time of the year for fishing for marlin in Costa Rica is from Sept through march. We use two different tactics for catching marlin in Costa Rica.

Tactic Number One for Costa Rica Marlin Fishing (Fishing Structures)

We fish mainly over penicals, sea mounts and ridges for both species. These structures are like an ocean cafeteria to marlin. Why do you ask? Bait, Bait Bait. The favorite bait for marlin are skipjack tuna. These tuna usually hang around these structures, because of the upsweep of the currents below. The currents bring up food that the skipjack feed on. We spot the tuna either on the depth sounder or see them feeding on top of the water.

Our method for catching the tunas is to troll white jigs through the feeding tuna. Most of the time we get multiple hook ups.The bait is then reeled up and we have a wet towel to put the tuna in while he is rigged up to troll live.We use rigging floss and insert a bait needle through the top of the eye socket. This is called brideling the bait. Then twist the hook a few times to take up the slack in the floss.When completed your hook should be tight above the eyes of the bait.

We use 300lb test fluorocarbon leader with a 16-o or 20-o circle hook depending on the size of the bait used. The rods we use for Costa Rica marlin fishing are 80lb class, with 50 wide reels spooled with 80lb test clear line. This gives you plenty of back bone in hauling in your prize catch. We fish 2 to 3 rods at a time for multiple hook ups on marlin. There is nothing better than a double hook up on marlin....This makes my job a challenge which one do we go after first??? The answer the closest one first.

When we are Costa Rica marlin fishing using live tuna we adjust the boat speed so the tuna swims along effortlessly and looks good. When we get over the structure we put the boat into neutral and this allows the baits to swim down deeper.This method seems to produce more bites from marlin. If we have no luck the boat is put into gear to move on down the structure. Next time you go fishing in Costa Rica and have a chance to go after a marlin you should give this method when fishing in Costa Rica for marlin it produces....

Marlin Fishing in Costa Rica, Tactic Number Two (open water trolling)

When on the hunt for marlin in open water we always keep our eyes open for birds working ( feeding, diving ,circling). Flocks of birds usually means bait, where schools of skipjack tuna and yellowfin tuna are feeding. We use the same method as mentioned before for catching the tuna, trolling jigs. Don't be afraid of using a big tuna for bait. A marlin can eat a bait that is 10% of there body weight. Yes 10% a 1000lb marlin can eat a 100lb tuna. We use tunas from 10lb to 20lb for bait. The method used in open water fishing for marlin when using live tunas for bait is to troll the tunas on the outer edge of the schooling tunas.The marlin usually stay on the outer edge of the tuna and dart into the school for there prey.

Marlin can also be taken in open water when blind trolling which is a tactic of trolling with lures at 9 knots in order to cover as much ground as possible. Using this method you have a cinch of catching other species of game fish (sailfish, dolphin, wahoo). Our favorite marlin lure is usually located on what we call the short corner. The lure is set on the 2nd wave behind the boat (only 15ft from the transom). What a spectular bite and sight it is to see a 650lb marlin come up just 15ft behind the boat and inhale your lure and take off into the sunset.

On your next Costa Rica marlin fishing trip I hope you will give my methods a try because I think you will hook the lady in the blue dress or the one in the black dress - AKA Costa Rica Marlin.

By: Joe Dodd
This great Costa Rica Fishing knowledge is courtesy of Captain Mark Corn of Southern Costa Rica Sport Fishing and Fintalk Sport Fishing.

Fishing information courtesy of Resources For Attorneys, a legal and lifestyle directory for attorneys, lawyers and the internet public.

Besides these large fish lurking these waters be prepared to weather a storm because it can approach in less than a moments notice. In August 2005 I remember fishing a Swordfish Tournament and all was quite as we were fishing comfortably waiting for the bite. We watched a storm at least 20 miles south of us but paid it no regard as it looked to have been moving straight east from its southern location. Then it was like someone turned on a switch as the winds picked up to 40+ knots with heavy rain and lightning. As we reeled in our gear it got worse. We were in the middle of this storm and had to be punished for the next 45 minutes as the wind and rain beat down on us as I tried to make it back to shore at 3-5 knots progressively. I regret my radar not working at the time. We could have seen the storm approach and wound things up earlier.

So a few things are necessary to have on your vessel when planning a trip to the Swordfish grounds for the evening. Having radar is important, as I have learned the hard way. Always do a bilge check to make sure things are in working order. There have already been some horror stories of boats taking on water out there in the middle of the night. If your fortunate, you might get some help from a nearby fisherman or else you might have to wait for the coast guard or Sea Tow. Make sure your navigation lights are working. This is most important when you move to reset your spread. You have to rely on other boats navigation lights to avoid a collision. So it works both ways.

There is nothing better than enjoying a successful Swordfishing excursion. In particular because we get to break in the good gear. On my boat we fish 80 w Shimano Tiagra reels with a few 50 w Tiagras as well. There will always be the debate on which way to spool it up. My preference is to go straight mono all the way to my swivel. I like to have no connections out there when I’m on a good fish. You might prefer to have a braid backing to get more yards on a 50 wide reel. I spool up with 80-pound mono on my 50’s and 100 pound on all my 80 wides. Last year some time in September when we set up on our second drift Swordfishing, I had set our first bait in the water and within 1 minute of the line being set the bait light came racing for the surface. I came tight on the fish and wasn’t impressed by his reaction. He actually swam right to the boat and I was able to grab the leader. The fish just swam to the boat and he just kept going tearing the leader out of my hands. The fish took a few dives almost straight down. His surges lasted for what seemed forever as the spool would just empty down to the bottom. The rod was doubled over hard with all that line straight up and down. It was the most insecure moment you could have knowing that he could just keep going and pop the knot or the line could snap.

Once you get past your line preference you have to think about leader material, length and strength. When you measure your length think of how it’s going to go down when your fish comes to the boat. Swordfish have eyes the size of baseballs and hunt at night. So I prefer to use long leaders past 30 feet, keeping your swivel well away from the bait. I also attach my Electralume bait lights here. If your using light sticks they can be attached with rubber bands and you can go closer to the bait.

Be cautious if you go with long leaders because wiring these fish can get dangerous. Be prepared to dump the leader if your fish surges at the boat. Never take wrap your hand around the line because if you have to let go, these fish can surge at lightning speed. If there is anything caught in the way including your hand or fingers, they will get dragged overboard. One time I was wiring a small Swordfish that was all lit up at the boat, I had to release the leader and a loop caught my finger. As the fish took off, the loop from the leader synched down on my finger and took all the skin off my knuckle. I thought I lost the tip of my finger it hurt so badly. When leadering a fish make sure the angler points the rod tip away from you so you have room to drop the leader in the water. As you progress on leadering the fish, release the line to your side outside of the boat. That way if you have to let go of the leader, it can run away smoothly without any snags. We use 3-500 pound leaders mainly to help resist the abrasion.

Swordfish can come boat side quietly or fighting. Many times they come with their bill swinging. This can be intimidating to the leader man but you must keep steady leading him to the boat and in 1 motion gaff him in the gills. If you can keep his body in the water for a moment he can bleed out before you take him in the boat but watch for Sharks. Sometimes the Swordfish will have another Swordfish following them and swimming around the boat, so be ready to pitch another bait at them. If your going to release your fish it’s best to cut the leader right at the boat and let the hook rust out. If you try to take the hook out be careful of the swinging bill. A heavy-duty pair of gloves will make you feel more confident in securing his bill. Be prepared if your fish makes a jump at the boat. They will jump into the boat. It’s not a good idea for everyone on the boat to be crowded around the angler and leader man during this time. They need room to move away if the fish comes up and in the boat, especially with a fish that has a long sharp bill.

Choose a good hook in the 9/0 to 12/0 range. Some guys are experimenting with large circle hooks and having success. My hooks are Mustad J's and stainless J's crimped to the leader. When I crimp my hook to the leader I leave a tag end about 2 inches long for rigging purposes. When I rig my squid I insert the hook through the top of the mantle and pull it all through including the long tag end. Now my squid can hang on the tag end like on a coat hanger. You can then measure where the hook lies against the squid and reinsert the hook right through the center of the meat. This rig takes all of 15 seconds and swims very natural. If your squids don’t look to fresh or are washed out, you can add some red food coloring to a bucket with some salt water in it. You can set this up on your way out so that when your ready to fish your baits will have soaked in that deep red color. Live bait is also a great option. I like to use any of the Runner species, Rainbows, Blues etc. In the wintertime the Tinker aka Boston Mackerel are abundant and work very well as a live presentation. All my live baits are bridled to their hooks.

When setting out my spread I start with my first bait around 100 feet deep. I attach a 1-2 pound lead with a long line clip 50-70 feet away from the bait to a permanent loop in the line I make with 90 lb wax line. As I’m at my 100-foot mark, another permanent loop, I attach my float by balloon or milk jug. I have a light stick attached to them for a visual when they’re away from the boat. I attach my float with a rubber band. The same goes for the rest of the spread accept I will go deeper as I get closer to the boat with the #2, 3, or 4 rods. You want to keep your floats spread out and away from each other spacing them 70-100 feet apart. Most times a fish will take the bait and surface with it. The last rod I fish is set under the boat with no float. I can always reel in or let out this line anywhere from 50-400 feet below.

As you wait for the strike your drag settings should be carefully monitored. Some guys like to keep the drags loose with the clickers on and others keep their drags tight at all times. Either way you need to preset your drags anywhere from 12-25 pounds at strike. Setting your drag takes practice. I like to fish a heavy drag but that came after years of experience. It’s just like King fishing; you will land more fish with a tighter drag from the run-off. You also will have the extra drag in case you need it on a very large fish.

Every night presents a different challenge with the weather. Your best success will be from drifting a perfect north course. The Gulf Stream in which you are fishing in moves along north at 1.5 to over 5 knots at times. With a good east wind you should be getting pushed inside, but sometimes the current will be moving northeast pushing you outside, even on an east wind. So monitor your GPS to see which way your drifting. A sea anchor comes in very handy and can help with your success. The anchor will stop your wind drift only, keeping you in the zone and current much longer.

You never know what you’re going to get into out there. You might hear of a lot of small fish being caught but that doesn’t mean to show up under-gunned. Just about everyone I know has had a shot at a very big fish. It can and will happen to you so be prepared.

By: Cary Hanna
See you on the rip, Captain Cary Hanna New Lattitude Sportfishing Charters Ft. Lauderdale, 954-907-0967.

Fishing information courtesy of Resources For Attorneys, a legal and lifestyle directory for attorneys, lawyers and the internet public.

One of the most popular recreational forms of fishing in Scandinavia, Russia and Germany is Ice Fishing, a sport also practiced in Canada and the United States, not only during winter, but also all year round in Alaska. However the most popular place to enjoy this activity is in the Great Lakes. Considered originally from Scandinavia, it was brought to America by Swedish, Norwegian and Finnish settlers arriving to Minnesota, a state where people from Nordic families is totally engaged in this sport. Ice fishing was exported to Canada from Minnesota and from here, it also arrived in Alaska.

Minnesotans found ice fishing an entertaining option, keeping in mind that the Great Lakes are often totally frozen, with the only exception being Lake Erie. When the bays of the Great Lakes freeze, yellow perch and northern pike are the most common catches waiting for enthusiasts of this sport. Ice fishing is practiced catching fish with lines and spears or hooks by opening a hole in the frozen lake to fish through. Depending on personal preferences, fishermen can sit in a heated cabin on the ice or on a stool placed on the open expanse of the frozen lake. Cabins are more popular indeed, because most of them have bunks and diverse amenities.

From all the forms of fishing, ice fishing is perhaps the activity requiring less effort and skill, just patience, good luck and the inner conviction of enjoy doing nothing else that sitting on ice, if not physical, at least exposed to low temperatures. For some people, this condition may appear unappealing but in the northern states, ice fishing is considered a serious entertaining activity with competitions and contests offering good prizes to people with the largest fish catches within a limited period of time.

One of the contests attracting more people every year is held at the Houghton Lake in Michigan. The "Tip-Up Town, USA", an annual festival celebrated the last 56 years ago during the second third of winter, and enhanced with other snow related activities such as strolling, snowmobiling, snow-sculpting and fireworks, in conjunction with Ice fishing.

While in the United States, Ice fishing contests have a prevalent carnival like atmosphere, full of camaraderie, in Finland, ice fishing contests have been defaced after repeated scandals involving both organizers and contestants, who have been caught cheating, making people belief this is not a sport, but just a pastime. However, in the United States there is an association supporting ice fishing activities, the American Ice Fishing Association (AIFA), which says that ice fishing contributes to managing the fish species population, and the economic growth of the community, bringing calming and relaxing effects of well being to all the participants.

Because ice fishing can be something more than a one-day experience, there are shelters conveniently located for longer fishing expeditions. Some others are mounted on-demand using simple structures, although the larger heated structures are basic for the success of fishing trips lasting several days.

By: Robert W. Benjamin
Copyright © 2006
Robert W. Benjamin has been in the software business on the internet for over 5 years, and has been producing low-cost software for the past 25+ years. He first released software on the AMIGA and C64 computer systems in the late 1970's-80's.
RB59 Software
http://www.rb59.com/software.

Fishing information courtesy of Resources For Attorneys, a legal resources and lifestyle directory for attorneys, lawyers and the internet public.

The best course of action or the most obvious area to fish sometimes isn't clear and you should consider your alternatives. The following paragraphs should help clue you in to some areas of a lake that are being overlooked.

One of my favorite times to fish is in the fall for lunker smallmouth bass. A great lake for fall smallmouth is Kagawong Lake on Manitoulin Island in Ontario, now fishing sand bars will work well on most lakes and rivers. Now the north east end of the lake has a large sand bar area just south and to the west it drops off to much deeper water.

Sand bars are common in most lakes and rivers, but for the best results the ones adjacent to deep water produce great action. In most lakes, sand bars form along shorelines and areas facing prevailing winds, that is what you have on this lake. The sand bar runs for about 3 miles along the shore and runs out about half a mile till it drops off to much deeper water.

Sand bars are forgotten pieces of shallow structure on which large smallmouth bass gather. In the fall big lunker bass turn from sullen sulkers into voracious predetors stiking out at anything that comes into their range. The pressing urge to store energy for the long winter sends them on feading frenzies into shallow water areas they do not usually frequent during the day. They can not wait for the right light or time of day to make their move.

Fall smallmouth bass like to hold and feed over a hard smooth bottom that provides an unobstucted view of the surounding area. They use the scattered cover on these sand bars because it attracts schools of baitfish and small panfish, which they prey on. I have very often seen small groups of large smallmouth bass roving in 3 to 6 feet of open water between small patches of vegetation. Smallmouth are particularly vulnerable to angling in these open areas because they can detect your lures and bait from long distances and attack viciously. When there are two or more bass present, the largest very often will strike first with the others in close pursuite right up to the boat. A second lure worked just behind that first strike will very often give you that double-header.

For those of you familiar with the latest on Smallmouth Bass Fishing tips now have at least a understanding that some areas of a lake are forgotten. But there's more to come.

These aggressive smallmouth can be fished fairly quickly with mid to shallow running lures. I have even had great luck fishing them with small jigs and live bait while drifting slowly along the sand bar, of course this is only appropriate with a good wind speed and direction to keep you on the sand bar. A spinnerbait is a good choice for working in and around the sparse cover on the sand bar and you are less likely to get foulded up. I like the 1/8 ounce size with 6 even 8 pound test line, because small spinnerbaits outfish the larger heavier sizes in the fall.

The spinnerbait color is important on some days. I have had good luck in stained water with a chartreuse Colorado blade, jig and twister tail. When smallmouth bass are aggressive this combination is deadly. When the bass are less energetic, lures that blend in with their surroundings seem more acceptable. When smallies are after crayfish in clear water, a copper blade and a brown to brownish-orange grub has a definate edge. Silver blades with smoke coloured grubs are good when the bass are feeding on minnows. Take a good variety of baits and lures to cover all conditions.

Varying the retrieve of these baits will produce more action, a steady retrieve back to the boat and then a lift and drop action on the next retrieve may produce better results. Other lures that work well on sand bar smallmouth are medium to small crankbaits, especially long narrow minnow imatators, and spinners. At the more heavily fished areas, a subtle twister-tail or tube jig can pay great dividends.

Most anglers often overlook sand bars and beeches because they see them as sterile structures without the usual rocky profile associated with smallmouth bass. Next fall, find yourself a nice sand bar with some vegetation or other sparce cover and you could have schools of lunker smallmouth bass all to yourself. Just get out there, enjoy nature and go fishing.

Now might be a good time to remember the main points covered above. Keep them in mind the next time your out there in the fall fishing for those smallies and you will you remember what's important about this Smallmouth Bass Fishing tip.

By: Jack Phillips
Jack Phillips has been an avid Canadian angler for over 50 years. Fishing Canada provides solid advice for walleye, pike, muskie, a variety of trout, arctic char, bass and more. Ideas on when and where to go on your next trip to Canada. Ice fishing tips. Delicious fish recipes also!

Fishing information courtesy of Resources For Attorneys, a legal resources and lifestyle directory for attorneys, lawyers and the internet public.

Walleye fishing has become increasingly popular in recent years and presents a whole series of added challenges to the angler. Walleyes are fascinating fish and very complex as a species. They are fresh water fish, found predominantly in Canada and the Northern United States.

There are mainly two types of Walleyes, the Yellow Walleye and the Blue Walleye and as the names imply is only a difference in color, although very subtle. In some parts they are being referred to as te Yellow Pike or Pickerel, although this is technically incorrect as they are part of a different family of fish altogether.

Walleyes as a species has been artificially propagated for over a century and has been planted on top of existing populations or introduced into waters naturally devoid of the species, sometimes reducing the overall genetic distinctiveness of populations. Genetically, walleyes show a fair amount of variation across watersheds. In general, fish within a watershed are quite similar and are genetically distinct from those of nearby watersheds.

The walleye is often considered to have the best tasting flesh of any freshwater fish, and, consequently, is fished recreationally and commercially. Because of its nocturnal feeding habits, it is most easily caught at night using live minnows or lures that mimic small fishes. This should be of special interest to the more serious angler, looking for an opportunity to get out there at night when the walleye is most active. Night fishing has become increasingly popular because of the added challenge it presents to the angler. It can be very dangerous though and care should be taken, especially if you are inexperienced.

Like a cat, the walleye fish's eye have a very distinct reflective glow at night. This unique feature allows them to see well in relatively low lighting levels - making them effective as nocturnal feeders. They are also able to see very well in murky and more turbulent waters, giving them the edge over their prey. When fishing for walleyes, finding these water conditions can be a good indication of the presence of walleyes.

Apart from their unique eyes, the Walleye is predominantly olive and gold in colour with the dorsal side of a being more olive, grading into a golden hue on the flanks. This golden olive pattern is broken up by five darker saddles that extend to the upper sides of the fish. These beautiful colors fade to white on the belly. The mouth of a walleye is large and is armed with many sharp teeth. The first dorsal and anal fins are spinous as is the operculum. Walleyes are often confused with Saugers and they actually look very alike. The main difference however, is the white coloration on the lower lobe of the tail. Many anglers catch Saugers and claim their catch to be a Walleye without even knowing the difference.

Although some populations of Walleye spawn on sand and vegetation, they generally require fairly clean waters and are found most often in deep mesotrophic lakes and moderate- to low-gradient rivers. This is why Canada offers such a perfect location for the Walleye to flourish. The walleye is considered a "cool water" species. Adults migrate to tributary streams in late winter or early spring to lay eggs over gravel and rock, although there are open water reef or shoal spawning strains as well. This offers an added opportunity for fishing the Walleye and an alternative to fishing for them at night and on lakes.

Both juvenile and adult walleyes eat fish almost exclusively, frequently yellow perch or ciscoes, moving onto bars and shoals at night to feed. This tends to be the best bait although the locals might have some better ideas (as they always do).

One of the best lakes for catching walleyes is Mille Lacs in central Minnesota. Several lakes in Canada have large populations of Walleye and any good guide will be able to show you the best spots. Walleyes are fascinating fish and a great fish to fish for.

By: Deon
The article is published with the permission of Fishing Canada Alaska.Com. For more up to date information and tips on Fishing in Canada and Alaska, please feel free to visit http://fishingalaskacanada.com.

Fishing information courtesy of Resources For Attorneys, a legal resources and lifestyle directory for attorneys, lawyers and the internet public.

Location location location! First find your fish; they may be indicated by other anglers catching fish, or come from where you caught previously. Past year’s records of hotspots and over - wintering areas can be very useful. But these can vary according to a season’s dominant prevailing winds directions and temperatures. Also fishing pressure, food availability, changes in the lake bed caused by moving / feeding carp, other fish present, e.g.; big over - wintering catfish etc can alter ‘holding areas! Snags in the water like fallen trees, rocks etc, silt beds, gravel bars, old water lily beds, dying weed beds, water inflows, overhanging trees / bushes can all hold fish and all are worth a try.

Also investigate cut – away banks, undercut margins, shallow margins in shade or sun where rolling / bubbling fish may be observed, in Winter on the end of a warmer wind or the back of a Northerly wind, reed beds, underwater humps, troughs, ‘food traps’ along the prevailing winds lanes, dips, smooth hard areas may well indicate a feeding area as will old silted up areas / bloodworm beds that produced fish previously in warmer times of the year..

Try places where there are sudden changes of depth as many harbour attractive natural food. Especially gravel slopes, mud humps and ledges around islands, and at the edge of weed beds. Casting around to find underwater debris and old dying weed can help locate fish too as these areas harbour natural food. Finding the Study at quiet or under fished areas, and for the biggest fish – most often they’re caught in the areas where most bait goes into a lake (I know Dave Lane would agree concerning his UK fifties!!! etc..

Often in winter carp can be located in maybe 1, 2 or just 3 areas of a lake and will be shoaled up tightly together. Casting all around the lake with a small lead and braided line methodically until you feel ‘bumps’ as you wind in (that are not there next cast) could be fish! Moving your hook baits every hour may be productive as you may find this roving approach lands right next to a fish or disturbs them into fresh activity / or ‘hearing’ your bait land and investigate out of curiosity.

Some say use smaller baits on the hook in winter, and I agree here. I’ve had more takes on these and I use small baits in P.V.A bags or on stringers, especially using pastes and par - boiled baits mixed with quick dissolving bait / fishmeal pellets.

Bites in Winter can be very deceiving indeed and your indicators should ideally be set to maximum vibration / sensitivity as often just one or two ‘bleeps’ could be a hooked fish spinning or shaking it’s head trying to spit the hook while just ‘sitting’ in the water static without running. ‘Rod knocks’ can really produce carp that were perhaps only lightly hooked; Try quickly ‘twitching’ your rig with a swift pull on your line by hand to hook the fish!

I have found that the old traditional ground bait composed of broken up stale loaves with loads of extra highly attractive additives and extracts, like those containing alkaloid substances you would use in your boilie base mixes work very well. This form of ground bait is not used so often these days in the UK. Added ‘live food like maggots / worms bring much needed activity to the mix, and often will attract other species to feed first which stimulates the carp to follow just in time to polish off your hook bait!

On that note using a plastic ‘feeder cage lead’ wrapped in fast dissolving / breaking down ground bait as in the popular ‘method’ is a great way to ‘build – up’ and feed your swim with fast acting attractors importantly, without feeding up the fish! This so often can produce smaller fish too, e.g., using ‘artificial maggots or sweet corn’ on the hook, but I was at “Rainbow lake” in France when Martin Locke boss of “Solar” caught his very first 60 pound carp on ‘the method’.

Find your fish and give them some bait! While fishing ideally use quantities of fast dissolving baits that can really turn the fish onto feeding without filling them up or suppressing their appetite! A period of pre-baiting quantities either while fishing, or introducing bait into areas where warmer winds drive into or afternoon sun can heat up, not fished at the time, or while not fishing. Or any area that potentially could hold or be a feeding area or a ‘safety area’ where fish may move to de - leach themselves or bask in top water levels as sunshine hits the water, or in / adjacent to snags etc; I remember one winter finding fish literally ‘stacked-up’ tightly together in a depression within an extensive weed bed of dead ‘Canadian pond weed.’ at Shotgate reservoir, Essex 1984.)

These fish were very easy to catch for a half – hour period each day and this time was like ‘clockwork for a period of about 3 weeks in December. Each day the feeding time changed by about 10 minutes so it could be charted and ‘kick-off’ could be predicted extremely precisely. It was exceptionally fruitful and exciting fishing and I kept the action going by using lots of basic, simple small roughly chopped ‘par-boiled’ and paste balls; yeast based milk protein baits with added coffee and chocolate drink powders. (For extra attractive ‘alkaloid’ content – they’re addictive!)

I also added “Ultra Spice” and “Chocolate Malt” flavours at 4 millilitres of each per pound of dry mix. I also a liquid protein source additive (Rod Hutchinson’s “Regular Sense Appeal” at about 60 millilitres per pound of bait. And I used this in dips too) – awesome stuff. Carp stimulating alkaloids are excellent when used in winter baits especially! For example betaine / betaine hydrochloride, and others e.g., as found in coffee, corn steep liquor, molasses, black pepper, cayenne / chilli peppers, etc, and similar compounds such as in hempseed.

Fish pulling methods to trigger fish feeding: Try using dissolving baits, Poly Vinyl Alcohol (water soluble) stringers with baits on or P.V.A bags. These are excellent for delivery of larger quantities of bait, maggots and even oil based liquid attractors into your swim, or even fine ground bait or pellets etc.

Add some natural butyric acid to boost your winter baits: For great added attraction, simply add finely grated parmesan or blue cheese. These baits have been proven fish catchers for years; it’s their butyric acid content, quite apart from their fat / protein / salt / taste enhancing properties!

I’d like fastest to digest bait possible please! Why we don’t use beef for carp baits much! (It’s not just cost) And use quality fish / milk proteins instead! The time taken to digest food and the ‘negative energy expenditure’ cost of digestion of beef in contrast to fish, turkey or chicken partly demonstrates how fish nutritional bait requirements need careful consideration, especially in cold water / slow metabolic and digestive rate conditions. As a personal example – you remember that ‘constipated / ‘full’ feeling after a large beef meal don’t you? (You don’t fancy much to eat afterwards!)

Ideally use the most easily digested baits / fastest dissolving baits / free bait: For the most winter takes. NB: Natural baits like maggots are ideal, being already mostly liquids!

Highlight your baits in winter: With high visibility ‘Day - Glow’ powdered dyes in your baits (edible ones only!) Popular examples are white, yellow, orange, pink and red. Charging – up the new ‘artificial’ plastic baits e.g., shaped like sweet corn with ultraviolet light makes these baits actually glow in the dark! They do seem to make some difference to action in low light conditions, but work well during daylight hours too and can be used on a hair in conjunction with your boilie bait! Similar style luminous plastic pop-ups, in conjunction with balanced and over - weighted boilie baits, can produce extra takes too.

Natural baits and ‘traditional’ baits: E.g., utilising the effectiveness of frozen bloodworm in a feeder and using artificial blood worm on the hook, and ground bait to really get takes when it’s really cold and carp seem to have ‘turned right off and ‘hibernated’! e.g., bagging up flavoured maggots etc to build up a swim – pre-empting known feeding times in winter to prepare the swim in advance. E.g, with feeding triggers soaks / dips, e.g. luncheon meat and spice oils / aniseed oil, e.g., flavoured worms, maggots with Tutti Fruity or Scopex flavours or Robin Red liquid additive etc.

Use maximum attraction, high leak off soluble pastes: For feeding the swim and moulding on the hook / or hook baits e.g., milk proteins, bird foods, high protein fishmeal e.g., shrimp, krill meal / shellfish meals / corn steep meal etc.

Try adding extra high levels of attractors for extra pulling power, e.g.; green lip mussel extract (betaine source), squid extract (taurine amino acid source), kelp powder (highly pungent plus packed with attractive minerals etc), corn steep liquor (Betaine source), various milk powders and extractions (attractive water clouding effects, taste /smell; milk sugars, fats, free and whole proteins, etc.)

Or perhaps address extra flavours / attractors to your swim using dissolving pellets soaked in attractors with the advantage of not feeding the fish as you would with whole boilies.

Flavours: Take into account that solubility of flavours is lowered in colder water. So try over flavouring your baits. For example by including raised levels of liquidised liver, or pre - digested liver powder, or yeast extracts, for extra pungent pulling power and freely soluble proteins for better attraction.

Adding taste enhancers promote more intensive feeding and alter the bait taste profile. Yeast extract or grated parmesan cheese contain a very carp attractive amino acid. Spices, sugar, salt all add different bait benefits. Really take advantage of amino acids ‘bait glugs’, dips etc. Add lobster extract liquid to add a different alkaloid (betaine) source, by pre-freezing your baits in it!

The advantages of using sweeteners: Scientifically it has been proven that when provided with two identical fully balanced foods but one is sweetened, carp will prefer the sweetened one! Carp love them! Sweeteners can vary from artificial ones like aspartame to natural fruit sugars like fructose, and from liquorice extract to ‘talin’ (an exceptionally sweet bark extract), to molasses (a great nutritional betaine source.)

Palatability is a critical factor in carp baits – why do you think tinned and pre-packed food producers put so much sugar, salt and taste enhancers in. They even add sugar and salt to the brand new ‘genetically modified ‘super sweet’ sweet corn in the cans. Sugar is addictive incidentally! And salt is vital to carp nutrition and balanced physiological health…

Using ‘single hook baits’: Carp seriously ‘know’ their aquatic environment and if anything happens or changes they are very quickly aware of it. Putting single highly flavoured / coloured baits out to perhaps known feeding / holding spots is a productive method at times, especially if fish are wise to beds of bait and may feed on hook baits more confidently sometimes when they are ‘solitary’ ones with no free offerings nearby.

Fishing upper water levels: Very often anglers blank and don’t catch fish, even though they may see the odd carp roll in their swim while fishing. This could be they are fishing hard on the bottom, where perhaps the fish find it uncomfortable to feed; perhaps water temperatures / water oxygen content / water PH is not quite right for carp to feed there at that time.

However, often carp will sit suspended in the mid to upper layers of the water where it’s more comfortable for them. Float fishing can work here or try ‘Zig – rigs’; these are long hook links with buoyant baits on the hook used to intercept those mid water carp – it can really work!

Using P.V.A bags / stringers paste / boilies mixed: How about trying milk powder and powdered flavours with sugars in P.V.A bags along with your favourite ‘bag mix’. Try coffee powders, cocoa powder, or perhaps raw cane molasses for a different effect. There are so many ‘alternative’ attractors available which can be more effective as the fish may feed more confidently on ‘new’ ones they have not been caught on yet! Always buying those ‘fishing shop’ baits can lead to a reduction in your catches!

Advantages of using ingredients and attractors that promote a feeling of well-being and health in carp: Put ingredients in your baits that help the carp and they’ll reward you by liking your bait more! Such effects could include: thinning their blood, helping them break down glycogen in the liver faster, or speeding up digestion, improving effective assimilation of food, cleaning the carp’s blood, stimulating the nervous system, stimulating the immune system, triggering digestive processes in / around the carp’s digestive tract, giving carp an immediate ‘high’ by using Opiate Alkaloids e.g., in wheat and milk…

Avoid using eggs in winter: Because of digestive inhibitory factors in egg white there are great alternative chemical and physical binders that are far better for beneficial fast digestion. Add Lecithin’s: To baits for cold water conditions e.g., under 10 degrees Celsius. These help make fats water soluble and available as energy to carp. Once inside carp these have more scientific nutritional and health benefits too

Using Paste hook baits and adding pre - digested proteins: In added layers around your par – boiled hook baits, or normal boiled hook baits for amazing carp attraction.

Neutral baits: Baits made with the minimum ingredients that have ever been tested or eaten before by carp. Try to create a ‘carp friendly’ safe bait with minimum ‘danger reference points’ regarding over-used ingredients flavours and attractors – the aim is to be original and different to fool those angler trained carp!

Changing and manipulating carp’s usual sensory ‘danger reference’ points: Regarding your baits, rigs, hooks, leads, lines, baiting patterns, attractors, bait ingredients used, and excluding carp the maximum number of danger signs from baits, rigs, hooks.

Herbs are great in carp baits: They especially aid digestion and affect the beneficial physiological and stimulatory systems and processes in fish. Good examples are fenugreek, Dill, Basil, ginger, garlic, onion, etc.

Winter spices: Use them raw in P.V.A bags; ‘Curry powders’ are nature’s digestive stimulators! Look at the ingredients in curry powder and discover the richness of these amazing extracts and powders.

These promote that familiar ‘just one more please syndrome’ (alkaloids do this – think nicotine!) This effect can over - ride the ‘I’m full up now’ brain signals to the digestive system; to produce you more carp takes!

Creating an exceptionally carp - attractive ‘salt hot spot’: Really pull in the carp by using high levels of mineral rich sea salt in your free baits / ground baits for freely released, highly attractive mineral salts into the water around your baits. (Many minerals are essential in carp’ diet)

The importance of maximising the use of pre - digested ‘whole’ protein foods and meals in your baits: For optimum nutrition in cold water and fantastic attraction, the properties of these carp foods that release those extra soluble ‘free amino acids’ are fantastic carp catchers.

Maximise the ‘curiosity value factor’ of carp behaviour: Use mud or soil, fine ground bait and frozen bloodworm, to cloud up the water to produce so called ‘slop’ ground baits. Try crushed cooked fermented mixed seeds for maximum clouding and attraction effect for prolonged intensive feeding.

Optimise highly coloured boilies by mixing colours / even types of boilie base mixes with different colours to make your feeding area a bit different!

Using ‘instant baits’ for opportunistic carp: Most carp can live on natural food and low protein baits without affecting fish health and fishing results too much short term. But you may need to keep ahead of carp’s ‘danger recognition’ by association with getting caught on them on ‘pressured waters. Constantly change the flavour or attractors you use, in your low protein baits and stay ahead of the fish!)

Of course on a small fish water / ‘hungry water’ or water where fish feed throughout Winter - time then these cheaper plentiful baits will be part of the carp’s ‘staple diet’ and will be taken habitually anyway.

Over - flavoured or over loaded-attractor boilies: E.g., (Using double the recommended flavour levels.) Cheap low protein baits such as the semolina and soya flour based ones, (some with added fishmeal or bird foods, are excellent winter baits. ‘Attractor baits’ that fit into this category mainly exploit one or two facets of carp attraction involving flavour smell or bait PH. Some baits may have added attraction e.g., betaine source like corn steep liquor as an added ‘food’ source signal,; so fooling the fish that their nutritional reward for eating this bait will be greater.

Fishing by ‘Stealth’ with float fishing tactics in marginal areas, snags or tricky areas where static conventional ‘rods behind alarms’ and conventional line angles are a barrier to success: Stalking improves chances by you actually finding fish, finding fish holding features, and actively feeding fish you may have missed! It takes advantage of a more quieter, subtle fishing approach which also avoids those nasty ‘dangerous’ tell - tale lines running through your swim at the usual angles to fishing spots.

(Those pesky carp can turn up in the most surprising places in winter – e.g., in 1 foot deep margins and mid - water over the lakes deepest ‘hole’ for example.

Your carp may not be feeding, but at least you’ve located fish! I once found a ‘common’ carp of around 20 pounds in weight, only a foot away from the grassy bank, one sunny afternoon. When I tested the fish’s awareness reactions, I was very surprised to find I was able to literally lift it right out of the water and onto the grassy bank! Whereupon I replaced it gently back and it slowly swam away! It was an extremely cold January and the water iced over most nights.

Using double, treble, sliding hairs, sliding rigs, or long length lead back stops to ‘trip – up’ slow moving wary carp in Winter : Using different types of baits on different hairs, using multiple tiny baits on multiple hairs. These are two methods many anglers forget when times get tough, and fish are more ‘picky’ about the baits they sample confidently.

Should you use shorter or longer hooklengths and hairs in winter? Each and every design has their day, taking into account different types of feeding activity / physical conditions. For example when fishing in silt, bottom debris, old weed, over hard gravel, etc. Adjusting baits of different density, attractor types and rates of leak-off, weights of leads, hook sizes, hair lengths, vary the way the bait and rig move in water. Also vary different bait shapes sizes and bait buoyancies.

All these things can change a blank day into a very memorable ‘red letter day’ even when snow thick on the ground and your only warmth comes from the whiskey in your coffee flask!!! Tight lines!

By: Tim. F Richardson
The author Tim Richardson, is a leading big fish UK angler and bait guru. His ebook / book: "Big carp bait secrets!"

Is the most complete bait making resource and manual for anyone making bait whether a beginner or experienced angler. Even the British Carp Study Group secretary, Nick Buss owns a copy for quick reference!

To find 'the bait making bible' go to: http://www.baitbigfish.com or contact Tim Richardson: info@baitbigfish.com

Fishing information courtesy of Resources For Attorneys, a legal resources and lifestyle directory for attorneys, lawyers and the internet public.